As sleek, minimalist bathroom designs become more popular, more customers are asking for in-wall systems.
For installers, that means diving into a more complex install process that can rack up time and cost if it’s not done right. However, companies like Ideal Standard, and their ProSysTM range, are on hand with products made for easy installation and handy guides to back you up.
Brian Capon, Technical Manager at Ideal Standard International NV, shares some quick pointers for working with in-wall systems:
Key Considerations for Installing In-Wall Systems
Start by taking a close look at the wall type you’re working with – stud, masonry, or IPS panel system – to ensure the frame or cistern are adequately secured. There should be no gaps between the front face of the frame and the back of the fixture wall otherwise flexing can occur. Observe minimum and maximum tile guard dimensions. It’s best to select manufacturers that provide purpose-built guides that go alongside installation instructions to help speed-up the installation process and confirm exactly what structural support is needed.
The frame must be correctly positioned relative to the finished floor height, so go for systems with adjustable legs (like those in the ProSys™ range) so you can lock in the right height and make sure it won’t go “walk-a-bout”.
Pipe Connections: Measure and mark water inlets and waste connections to match the bathroom layout, it’ll keep things smooth and stop you from reworking later on.
It’s also worth reading up on relevant legislation – especially the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 and the Building Regulations 2010. For example, it’s crucial that the cistern and WC are flush-tested together once installed. This not only ensures they work in unison but also guarantees compliance with legal requirements. Additionally, make sure all the products you’re working with have a Declaration of Performance before installation even begins. These should be readily available from the manufacturer and confirm the solutions meet the necessary standards.
This way you’re covering all the best practices for pipe installations and the construction and extension of buildings, including bathrooms.
Fitting Orientation:
Precision’s key here: getting the cistern lined up and secured properly will mean the flush works as it should. Toilet, Cistern and Flush Plate should all be on the same vertical centre line. If you are using the cistern ‘knockouts’ that allow you to bring the inlet valve supply through an alternate hole, remember to discard it correctly, otherwise it can find its way into the flushing rim and cause an obstruction.
Take extra care marking the inlet and outlet pipes. Incorrect pipe lengths can result in leaks and poor performance. They need to be correctly inserted into the frame for a snug fit once the bowls is fitted in place. Always measure twice and cut once!
Double-Checking Connections: Once the bowl and flushplate are installed, it’s a simple press of a button to check for any leaks!
Maintaining an in-wall cistern
Every ProSysTM frame is designed to be maintained through the service tunnel. All of the moving components can be accessed and removed through the flush plate aperture. This makes service and repair less daunting and having an accessible integral isolation valve on hand negates the need for turning the cold mains off in the property. Over time, issues like slow refills or continuous flushing can crop-up with in-wall cisterns. Often, these are down to worn diaphragms or clogged inlet valve filters, both of which can be easily addressed with the right guidance from the manufacturer. Opt for manufacturers who can readily supply the extra products and parts needed to make repairs quick and easy – you don’t want to be waiting around for a new flushplate for days.
It’s why we work with leading distributors as our aim is to ship parts within 24 hours – and we make all our products fully compatible with existing units, making repairs a quick job so you can work efficiently.
Replacing a worn Inlet diaphragm
First things first when it comes to replacing a worn diaphragm is turning off the water supply to the cistern (of course!) and flushing it to clear out any leftover water. Then it’s accessing the inlet valve and carefully taking out the diaphragm while keeping watch for any gunk or damage. Then simply add in the new diaphragm as per the manufacturer’s specs and put the inlet valve back together.
Cleaning the Inlet Valve Filter
Cleaning inlet valve filters is another common job with sediment sometimes clogging up the inlet valve filter, leading to a slow or weak refill, but this too can be a quick fix!
To clean it, close off the water, remove the inlet valve and retaining clip, dis-assemble the inlet valve, carefully detach the filter, and clean it with a brush. You can also access and check the flow restrictor at this point. Then it’s as simple as reassembling and turning the water supply back on to test the flow.
Cleaning / Replacing the Outlet Valve Bottom Seal
Nobody likes a leaky loo, so regular inspection and maintenance can prevent costly water bills through wastage. Periodically clean and replace the outlet valve bottom seal to maintain correct performance of your product. Either twist or un-clip the outlet valve from the cage. The bottom seal can be found on the base of the outlet valve.
Offering customers more
In-wall systems can be a great addition to your offering, but each job will have its own quirks and nuances, so make the manufacturer your first stop for detailed product resources and guidance before you press go (or flush)!
To learn more about Ideal Standard’s ProSys™ range, check out: https://www.idealstandard.co.uk/products/collections/prosys
